The Tie Guide: Fabric, Knots, and How to Wear Them

Why Tie Quality Matters

The quality of a tie is immediately apparent to anyone who has handled a fine one. A well-made silk tie has a weight and drape that a cheap tie cannot replicate — it falls correctly, knots cleanly, and holds its shape throughout the day.

The finest ties in the world are made in Como, Italy — a region that has been producing luxury silk fabrics since the 15th century. The great Como houses — Marinella, Bigi, Rosi, and others — produce ties in silk that is woven to specific weights and constructions designed to knot and drape correctly.

The weight of the silk (measured in momme) determines the drape and durability of the tie. Most quality ties use silk in the range of 16–22 momme.

Weave Types: The Character of the Tie

The weave of the silk determines the texture and character of the tie. The three most important weaves are twill, satin, and grenadine.

Twill is the most common weave for ties. It produces a diagonal rib pattern that gives the tie a subtle texture and a moderate sheen. Twill ties are versatile — they work in both formal and business contexts.

Satin produces a smooth, highly lustrous surface. Satin ties are the most formal — they are appropriate for black-tie events and the most formal business occasions.

Grenadine is an open, loosely woven silk that produces a textured, matte surface. Grenadine ties are the most casual of the three — they work particularly well in business casual contexts and pair beautifully with tweed and flannel suits.

The Four-in-Hand: The Essential Knot

The four-in-hand is the most important tie knot to master. It is the simplest, the most versatile, and — when tied correctly — the most elegant. It produces a small, asymmetrical knot that works with almost every collar style and every tie fabric.

The four-in-hand is the knot preferred by the most discerning dressers — including the tailors and style authorities of Savile Row and Naples. Its slight asymmetry and natural dimple give it a character that more symmetrical knots lack.

A dimple — a small fold in the silk just below the knot — is the mark of a well-tied four-in-hand.

Pairing Ties with Shirts and Suits

The principles of pairing ties with shirts and suits are based on contrast, scale, and colour harmony.

Contrast: the tie should contrast with both the shirt and the suit. A navy tie on a navy shirt on a navy suit creates a monochromatic effect that is generally too uniform. A burgundy tie on a white shirt on a navy suit creates clear contrast and visual interest.

Scale: patterns should vary in scale. A large-scale check suit should be paired with a small-scale or solid tie.

Colour harmony: the tie should pick up a colour from either the suit or the shirt, or introduce a complementary colour.

The Bow Tie: When and How

The bow tie is required for black-tie and white-tie events, and is appropriate for a range of formal daytime occasions. It should always be hand-tied — a pre-tied bow tie is immediately recognisable and considered poor form.

The bow tie should be tied with a slight imperfection — a perfectly symmetrical bow tie looks mechanical. The ends should be slightly uneven, and the overall shape should be relaxed rather than rigid.

Beyond formal occasions, the bow tie can be worn as a personal style statement in business and smart casual contexts.